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Bolivian Coffee:
As the "Rooftop of the World," Bolivia has an
excellent geography for growing coffee - high altitudes
and tropical forests, but the story of Bolivian coffee cannot
be told without mentioning coca leaves and the "Death
Road."
Historically, the coca leaves have been the traditional
money crop in Bolivia, with coffee being grown as an afterthought.
Only recently has coffee begun to give it competition.
Any coffee grown in Bolivia has had to make its way across
"Death Road" - the road that leads over 12,000
feet passes into the commercial center of La Paz, where
it was processed. The farmers would depulp and wash the
coffee at the farm before making the trip, leaving the beans
slightly wet for the journey. As the coffee experienced
the altitude changes of the trip, it was freeze and thaw,
which led to continued fermentation and off-flavors. Regardless,
it was bought and shipped out as Bolivian coffee.
With USAID funding - for the purpose of combating the drug
industry, processing centers have been built much closer
to the farms, meaning that the coffee is fully processed
before making its way across the Death road.
More recently, with the continued monetary input of US
anti-drug money, the Bolivian Specialty Coffee Association
has been formed to promote better growing and processing
practices, and, in 2004, the first Cup of Excellence competition
for Bolivian coffees was held. Thirteen Bolivian coffees
earned the Cup of Excellence designation, with first prize
going to CENAPROC, the same co-op that produced this coffee.
Bolivia currently ranks 38th in the world in coffee production
- small, but growing, and coca leaves still bring in more
money than most coffees, but the coffees are becoming more
competitive.
Unfortunately, after the political situation in Bolivia
changed in 2006 - not to the US's liking, USAID withdrew
funding from the Cup of Excellence, bringing about some
uncertainty about the future of the Bolivian coffee industry.
Hopefully, the recent inroads in quality and sustainability
there with provide the roots for a good future.
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